Slightly more than 10 years (August 28, 2001, to October 28, 2011) of high-resolution directional wave spectra were measured by an Acoustic Doppler Current Profiler installed in the nearshore at ...
The response of a wave field to turning winds following the passage of two cold fronts off the U. S. East Coast around St. Valentine's Day, 1991 is studied using data collected as a part of the ...
Thanks for the "How Buoys work" posting. One thing that is not explained though, is how does the buoy differentiate the different swells in the water? For instance if you have a 4 foot 20 sec swell ...
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